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The task of installing a new top on your
car may be daunting to many. I decided to give it a try because I need to
uphold my ranking in the "we tight" Spridgets club! On top of
that, I just hate paying someone else to do something that I should be capable
of doing.
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Step 1
Remove the old top. Start by removing the trim strip
and the snaps from the very rear of the top. This is easiest with the
top up but unlatched from the windshield. Save all the parts, including
the screws. Then disconnect the header rail from the top bows by removing
the three posidrive screws from each side. They look like phillips
head screws but they aren't... Make sure you use the correct tool! You
will strip them if you use a regular phillips head screwdriver... There
is no need to remove the little plastic blocks that are held on by two
screws each unless you are going to replace them. Now you can move the
top to a more comfortable place to work on it.
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Remove the header rail seal
from the header rail. You will completely destroy the seal in the process
so just plan on replacing it! The factory used rivets to attach the seal
mount but phillips head screws were holding it together in my car. Remove
the rivets (or screws). Pop the rail off and you can peel the top from the
header rail.
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Remove the "lift the
dot" fasteners from the old canvas unless your new top included them.
I made a simple tool to remove and tighten them. A piece of bar stock with
two holes drilled through it and some piano wire of the proper diameter
worked just fine. Use the holes in one of the securing nuts to measure the
space between the two that you drill. If you are off by a little bit you
can always bend your wire a bit to fit.
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Step 2
Unfold the new top and let it sit in the sun for a
while to allow it to soften up. When it is really pliable, position it
on the car being careful to line up the middle of the rear window with
the center screw hole. Replace the center snap and screw on the trim strip
and begin reassembly with it. After it is started, snug it up a little
but do not tighten it down all the way. With the help of an able assistant,
pull the top material to the outside and replace the next snap and screw.
Repeat until one side is done and then do the same on the other side.
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Step 3
This involves installing the "lift the dot"
fasteners. Pull the material as tightly as you can and mark the spot where
the first fastener goes. Start at the trim strip and work toward the door
in order to make the material as taut as possible. Use a modeling razor
knife and a small pair of scissors for this task. Using the razor knife,
cut through the material and make a small hole that is carefully enlarged
with the scissors until the fastener will just squeeze through. Then use
a small flat blade screwdriver to push the material as far down the threads
as possible. Next, use the razor knife to trim the material around
the threads in order to expose as much of the threads as possible. Finally,
screw the securing nut on with the cool tool that you made until it is
tight. The "lift" side has little nibs built into it to help
keep the whole unit from turning as you tighten the nut.
Repeat as above until all of the fasteners are installed.
Remember to fasten each one and pull the material tight to find the location
of the next one.
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Step 4
Reinstall the header rail to the top bows. Have the
top bows fully extended but not latched to the windshield. Pull the material
tight. There is a flap on the inside of the front corners of the top.
Position the top with the flaps wrapped around the header rail. See photo
of the flap.
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Roll the edge of the material
over the lip of the header rail and clamp it with clothes pins or whatnot...
This is the test fit. See how it stretches out as you push it down against
the windshield. Obviously, you won't be able to snap it down with the clamps
in place but you should be able to tell if you are in the ballpark. When
you are satisfied that you have it pretty close, mark the edge with chalk
or grease pencil. Put your mark on the material right on the edge of the
header rail where it folds under. When you are ready to trim the top material
where it attaches to the header rail leave approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch
MORE than where your marking are... Back it up and replace the clamps. You
want it tight but it will probably be too tight if you don't back off a
little!
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Step
5
With the top folded down to where you can easily work
on it, cut the excess material off.
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Put the top bows down as
in the photo above. Make the final trims and pay attention to the corners.
Trim the material around the little plastic block to make sure that it is
firmly attached when it is glued down. Liberally apply contact cement to
the under side of the header rail and the part of the top that folds under.
Let it set per the manufacturer's directions. When ready to affix, carefully
attach one side to the header rail starting with a corner.
Fold the corners under so the header rail seal mount
will clamp them in place.
Reattach the header rail seal mount to the header
rail with the rivets or phillips head screws. If you are using the old
mount, the new seal won't slip into it as easily as you would like. Just
contact cement it into place and forget about ever removing it with the
intent of re-using it!
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Step 6
Latch the header rail to the windshield and stand
back to admire your work. Looks pretty good, eh?
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Well, you're almost done!
Mark the spot on each side where the flap of material needs a snap in order
to attach to the inside of the windshield pillar. Install the snap on each
side and you're done!!!
Congratulations! You just saved $250. If your top
has some wrinkles in it, just remember that it will be down most of the
time anyway!!!
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