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Disc Brake conversion on early drum brake SPRIDGETS

 

A properly set up Spridget disc brake conversion will require the right components.

It has been a customary practice to bolt on spindles and hubs from later Spridgets, but the hydraulic components mistakenly remain unchanged. While in some cases this can be made to work, it does not work the way the system was originally designed. This discussion does not attempt to cover all the requirements or possibilities; it is just intended to focus on the master cylinder issue. I will cover other factors in a separate discussion. Go to rear brakes

When disc brakes were first fitted to the Sprite and Midget (HAN7-24732, GAN2-16184) in September '62 along with the introduction of the 1098cc engine, both the master cylinder bores were resized to 3/4" down from 7/8". In addition the hydraulic piston was slightly shortened along with some other modifications, including a shorter pushrod. These tandem master cylinders were used until 1967 when separate brake and clutch master cylinders were introduced. Later changes included a dual line brake master cylinder.

For those who do not wish to modify the footwell, pedal box and pedals to accept the later system, the best solution is to install a 3/4" bore master cylinder from a disc brake car. Externally, it appears identical and is a straight bolt into the original pedal box. Unfortunately, these 3/4" bore units seem to be scarce and many have been modified with oversize Roadstar pistons, for which seals are no longer available.

The only solution then is to resize (sleeve) either a 7/8" bore MC or the oversized 3/4" Roadstar unit to the correct original size to accept original seals. Unfortunately, 3/4" bore master cylinders and original pistons are no longer available.

For this reason, I have been working with an expert in this field to reproduce the correct pistons along with a solution to the pushrod issue. Re-sleeving the original style master cylinder with the correct seals and pistons will greatly improve and simplify installing the disc brake conversion. As significant is the fact that while Moss sells replacement 7/8" (only) master cylinders for $400, setting up the existing master cylinder to 3/4" bore will only run $120 (same as a 7/8 re-sleeve), plus the cost* of the pistons. You may choose to do one or both bores. So, your only additional cost is the replacement piston. Keep in mind: combining 3/4" and 7/8" seals will require two seal kits as kits come in pairs.

* Cost of these new pistons will run $40 each.

Below are a couple pictures to clarify the differences.

Since a small batch of these pistons will initially be made, let me know if you want to be included in either having one or more reserved for you (regardless whether you want the sleeving done now or later).

Please send me an email at pixelsmith@gerardsgarage.com so I can include you.

Thanks for your interest.

Gerard

 

Various master cylinder pistons., pictured below.

 
 
MC pistons
 
 

Original 7/8" piston. (far left) / Roadstar 7/8" and 3/4" (center) / Original 3/4" piston (far right)

Note the Roadstar pistons have no seal locating rib present and that outside diameter is approximately .025" dia. larger than stock piston. This is the case for both 7/8" and 3/4" Roadstar pistons.

Seals for the Roadstar are NLA and will render a cylinder unusable without being sleeved back to either 7/8" or 3/4 " bore.

 
  pushrods

Shorter pushrod used on disc brake master cylinders

Appropriate length pushrods are needed for your application.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
New Push-rod (below)
Prototype piston (pictured below)
new_pushrod
  prototype ports  
 
At first glance, it might seem a simple thing just to make 3/4" pistons, but the situation is a little more complicated. In addition to the obvious difference in diameter, there are two other important differences. The 3/4" pistons are about 0.050" shorter, and the pushrod socket is about 1/2" shallower than the 7/8" pistons. The fluid ports in the bottom of the reservoir of the 3/4" casting are drilled to match the shorter piston length, and the pushrods used in the later cars are 1/2" shorter as well.
Ports (above)
 
  Below: combination 7/8" and 3/4" bores    
  tandemMC
At first glance, it might seem a simple thing just to make 3/4" pistons, but the situation is a little more complicated. In addition to the obvious difference in diameter, there are two other important differences. The 3/4" pistons are about 0.050" shorter, and the pushrod socket is about 1/2" shallower than the 7/8" pistons. The fluid ports in the bottom of the reservoir of the 3/4" casting are drilled to match the shorter piston length, and the pushrods used in the later cars are 1/2" shorter as well.
 
  final piston    
Final product anodized, now ready (left).
Cad plated master cylinders (below)
cad
    Tech Tips  
  Footnote regarding using silicon brake Go to rear brakes  
 

2007 Disc brake article by John E Davies (appeared in Mascot and Marque One

Part 2

   
   

 

   
   
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